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The track is likely broken. The lower guides come apart on those pretty frequently. Check my playlists, I have videos on how to remove the track and how to rebuild it

@@SealofPerfection Thank you! Will do.

It's awfully hard to get to from the outside to seal. I'd recommend silicone if anyone did try that method, but getting coverage from inside would be tough. I do have a simple, but very effective fix in another video.

It could possibly make the blower motor not work

Well I'm glad it helped. Very interesting that it worked on a different model

They have the same guts as all the tracks do through 2014. They break a lot and you can buy rebuild kits from the sunroof doctor. I have a set of videos on how to take the track out and rebuild it. It's on a newer truck but there won't be very many differences

@@SealofPerfection Thank you very much. I'll have to find your videos.

@@jonw6376 it is in this playlist Ford F-150-Up Sunroof Track Replacement Series: ruclips.net/p/PLuyCUaimPyOUjx8Mgf2GLeCdnne6fPwI5

At this point I'm not very confident at all. I have been having a ton of reports saying they had problems with these things. I have done some sets and not had a problem, but I've had a lot of people reporting back to me that they have and even had one person bring one to me and I couldn't do anything with it either. Ended up having to replace it with another one that I had rebuilt. The build quality seems to be pretty sketchy.

Oh yeah, so I would give it about a 4 right now.

@@SealofPerfection thanks for the reply. Sorta what I expected and I knew you’d shoot straight on it. At this point I think I’ll leave the risk up to the owner.

@@bradthedad7072 that's what I am doing. I am explaining to them the options and the risks and letting them make the decision.

Did it go through the procedure and just still not work? Or will it not even do the procedure

Wow, how in the world did you get the cable out without dropping the motor? It's supposed to lock it in place

That said, if you somehow yanked the cable out by the roots without dropping the motor, it's screwed and the track itself might well be also.

That might not be a bad idea. Different Vehicles do vary on exactly how high they want that thing adjusted

@@SealofPerfection Ok, I will give it a try. Are there certain things I need to know and would notice if I adjust it too high, other than if water is still leaking? Thanks

@@TXprimeFishing13 If you get it too high above the roof line, it might hang up or "thump" when you open it, because it could drag a bit. Not much else though. Shouldn't need to be that high if the seal is on there right, though.

Check with sunroof doctor. I think they may have those parts now

Both the deflector and the trough can be put in with the track in the truck. You only need to remove the glass for the trough. You don't even need to do that for the deflector.

I do the drains from the bottom from inside the wheel well. I have a video on how to do that. But yes you really do need to have the glass open also to make sure there isn't any debris that's up at the top stopping them up. Plus you can't water test them obviously if the glass is shut

If you want to completely future proof it, then that would be the way to go. With the new style glasses, you can replace the seals on them if they ever go bad so it's much less expensive after the initial investment. And you're going to have them out anyway. You might be able to sell them to someone let me has a cracked glass or something. Buy once, cry once, as the saying goes.

Thanks for the recommendation. Greatly appreciate it!

Yes I fixed one for someone with that very first set of cables that I used in the video. But that supplier that I got them from Amazon now no longer has them. So I don't really know who to vouch for now. I have also had a ton of people telling me that they had problems with the cables and some have sent them back and got a new set and they worked, but it seems that your mileage may vary widely on that

@@SealofPerfection where do you get your cables from now ?

@@mkolor96 I have not bought any for a while now. I got several sets from that one supplier initially. I'm not really sure where to go now

@@SealofPerfection want to sell a set haha, I don’t want to buy a set and have them be the wrong size

@@SealofPerfection also thank you for posting what you post mine broke the other night one side was stuck up the other side was down flush and the cables were crooked. If it wasn’t for your videos I would have been stuck the dropping the motor to release the cables saved my butt thank you

Is the track broken? That is very common

@@SealofPerfection it’s off track

@@headofthetable5369 Okay, unfortunately it's broken. Either needs rebuilt or replaced. I have videos on how to do both.

You can drop the motor loose from the cables and move the guides manually

@@SealofPerfection any chance you have a video on how to do that?

@@SealofPerfection I’m trying to hot wire it right now tbh

@@jjmcg9688 I have this one on how to drop the motor but I don't think I have one on how to manually move the track

@@jjmcg9688 now that I think about it you could swap the motors. The shade motor is the same. You just have to have both plugged in for either one to work

I'm trying to picture what you're talking about, lol. Did you happen to compare the cable length to the original? And is the new cable kinked at all?

Responded

Did I install the guides wrong?

@@surferstar1 Grinding noise? Unfortunately, these aftermarket cables and guides seem to be very hit-or-miss. I've had a ton of people reporting back on my video of how to install them with the same issue. Sometimes they send them back for replacements and this fixes it. But not always. Some had said the cables are slightly smaller than the factory ones. I've not personally seen that yet, but I sure have had a lot of people telling me the same thing. This is an unfortunately byproduct of these parts from China, I'm afraid. One thing you can do is make sure both guides move freely and one isn't harder to move than the other one. Other than that, you might want to think about sending them back and see if you get one that fits better. Wish I had better news.

Appreciate the reply..yeah bummer

Look in my F150 playlist for sunroofs

ruclips.net/p/PLuyCUaimPyOWXwtGxSpb_QHCVnIx9Mb5u

Make sure that both of the lower guides are sliding with about the same force and one is not significantly harder to move than the other. I have had a lot of people using these after market lower guides telling me the same story

The track may well be broken and jammed. Pretty common issue

I have had a lot of people tell me the same thing with these aftermarket parts. Make sure that both of your lower guides you can move freely by hand. Make sure one isn't significantly stiffer than the other

@@SealofPerfection thanks for replying. still haven't been able to fix this issue. The lower guides are movable by hand but i think they are naturally a little stiff. when in place and attached to the cables. should i take them back out to lubricate them more and or how free should they be? i think they are looser than the OEM. i always thought my problem were the cables being too skinny. i greatly appreciate the help

@@docam7211 If the cables are too small, the rest won't matter. The gear on the motor has to be pressed tightly against them or it's going to slip. They are naturally a bit stiff, but you shouldn't have to pop a blood vessel to move them, either. I'd love to know the diameter of these cables if you have a dial caliper. I could compare to some factory ones and see if that's really what the problem is

Just the sunroof motor, you do not have to replace these in pairs

Be careful with the ebay motors, the aftermarket motors have been having a problem programming. Some of them work and some of them will never program. I generally recommend people use OEM, but if you already have it definitely try it I guess

Oh, and the sunroof motor is over the driver's visor, shade motor is over the passenger's visor

I would say it depends on the type of filler you were using. Check the TDS for whatever brand you have. Theoretically the answer should be yes you can use it

Is it getting into the cab or just into the track? If it is not getting onto the floors and it is all draining out, that is normal.

It's just getting into the track and draining out through the drains nothing in the cab is wet

@@LbpDayday That's the way its designed.

Don't disagree, but I am using SPI epoxy and therefore I am showing their recommended process. Check with the TDS of whatever you are using

The challenge with this type of product is that the TDS of the primer and the TDS of the phosphoric acid pre-treatment often conflict, creating a lot of confusion. I'm using both prep & epoxy primer products from Kirker on a tractor project right now, and even there, not crystal clear.